Real estate 101 (A cheat sheet)

If buying or selling for the first time, you might be bamboozled by all the real estate jargon bandied about. Here is our A-Z guide to what it all means.

Accrued depreciation

The total depreciation of a property over a period of time. Usually the difference between the replacement value at purchase and its present appraised value.

Appreciation

An increase in a property’s value over time. Property can appreciate in value due to increased demand, inflation and/or interest rate changes.

Authority to sell

The official contract a vendor signs to give an agent permission to sell a property on their behalf. The contract also usually details the agent’s fees and any advertising costs.

Breach of contract

When a seller or buyer dishonours one of more of the conditions in the sale contract, such as a vendor failing to make agreed repairs or a buyer changing their mind after the cooling-off period.

Bridging finance

A short-term loan to help cover costs between selling one property and buying another.

Buyer’s advocate

Also known as a buyer’s agent, this is a licensed professional who negotiates the sale on a buyer’s behalf. Think of it as the opposite of a regular real estate agent, who works on behalf of the seller. A buyer’s advocate can also help source property for you.

Caveat

A legal notice that someone (the caveator) has claimed a unregistered interest in a property.

Certificate of title

The legal document certifying property ownership. If you have a mortgage, your lender will hold the certificate until your loan is repaid.

Conveyancing

The area of law that deals with the transfer of property from one party to another. Your conveyancer represents your interests as a buyer or seller. They will prepare the contract of sale, research the property and its certificate of title, calculate any owed rates and manage settlement with the lender.

Cooling-off period

A period in which a buyer can legally withdraw from a property sale. Different states and territories have different cooling off periods and a termination penalty may still apply if you withdraw. There is usually no cooling-off period when you buy at auction.

Covenant

A condition placed on the use of a property, such as a height restriction or a stipulation about building materials.

Depreciation

The wear and tear on a building or fixtures, which you can claim on your income tax if your property is for investment and built after July 1985. You will need a quantity surveyor to prepare a schedule of depreciation on your property to calculate how much you can claim.

Easement

A section of land registered on a property title that someone is entitled to use even though they are not the owner, e.g. a shared driveway.

Encroachment

When a neighbour violates the rights of an adjoining property owner by building something on their land.

Encumbrance

A restriction or notice placed on land, which is usually listed on the certificate of title. A covenant is an example of an encumbrance, as is an easement (see above). Governments can also register an encumbrance on a property to let buyers know of a prior land use.

Equity

The value built up in a property minus any money owed.

Lenders’ Mortgage Insurance (LMI)

The cost of securing a loan when you need to borrow more than 80 per cent of a property’s value. LMI covers the lender’s risk should the property value fall, even though the insurance is paid by the borrower.

Negative gearing

Borrowing money to buy an investment property and the cost of owning that property (interest repayments, rates, repairs etc.) is more than the income received from rent. In other words, you make a loss, which can be claimed against your income tax.

Off the plan

Buying a dwelling, usually an apartment, before it is built.

Strata title

Ownership of an individual unit in an apartment or townhouse complex, which also has shared areas, such as a driveway, garden or swimming pool. These shared areas are owned and maintained collectively with the other unit owners.

Tenants in common

When two or more people own a property and each person’s ownership interest is specified as a certain percentage.

Title search

A title search researches the historical and current ownership and usage of a property.

Torrens title

When a purchaser owns both the house and the land on which it is built. This is the most traditional form of home ownership in Australia.

Zoning

The usage category applied to a parcel of land by a local council or other government authority. Zoning will determine, for example, if you can build units or operate a business on a property.

-Australian Finance Group

The pros and cons of borrowing with a smaller lender compared to a big bank:

Whether we realise it – or care to admit it – Australians are very loyal to our big banks. In fact, more than 80 per cent of home loans in Australia are held by one of the big four or their subsidiaries.

But there are other options out there in the form of non-bank lenders. Haven takes a look at how non-bank lenders work and what they can and can’t offer homeowners.

What is a non-bank lender?

The term non-bank lender is a little confusing because it implies any financial institution that isn’t a bank, such as a credit union or a building society, falls into this category. The term broadly covers financial institutions that only deal in loans and do not hold deposits.

A building society, for example, where you can have a loan product and a savings account, is technically lumped in with banking lenders. However, most consumers would consider a credit union or a building society to be bank alternatives.

How do they work?

Because non-bank lenders don’t hold deposits, they have to rely on other sources of funding for their loans. While all lenders borrow money on the wholesale market, non-bank lenders have to rely solely on this funding stream.

Banks, credit unions and building societies, on the other hand, are able to prop up their lending to some extent with the funds from customers’ savings. This distinction is important because it affected non-bank lenders’ ability to weather the GFC, and why their market share fell from around 12 per cent before the crisis to around just 2.5 per cent afterwards.

But non-bank lenders have bounced back and are being sought by many consumers as an alternative to traditional lenders, largely due to the post-GFC support of the

Australian Office of Financial Management. Realising the importance of creating competition in the home loan market, the Federal Government decided to invest in home loans, creating a safety net for non-bank lenders.

So supportive is the government of this increased competition, the government declared non-bank lenders the fifth pillar of our financial system.

Are they safe?

The GFC raised concerns about the flow-on effects of financial institutions who went belly up because they failed to manage their loan portfolios.

Here in Australia, banks and other institutions that take deposits are regulated by the Australian Prudential Regulation Authority, while non- bank lenders come under the scrutiny of the Australian Securities and Investments Commission, which can intervene if you feel a lender has acted illegally.

All consumer credit products, including home loans, are governed by the Uniform Consumer Credit Code, which ensures lenders make borrowers aware of their rights and obligations and put sufficient checks and balances in place to ensure borrowers can repay their loan.

At the end of the day, if a lender folds, there is minimal risk to borrowers because the mortgage will be taken up by another lender. If you’re not happy with that lender, the ban on exit fees means you can take your business elsewhere.

Advantages of non-bank lenders

Better rates

Despite what many consumers may think, non-banks are usually able to offer lower standard rates. This is because they are looking for ways to claim market share and generally operate with lower overheads than banks. They are also usually not publicly-listed entities, so are not under the scrutiny of investors anticipating dividends or increased share prices.

Traditionally, non-bank lenders offered lower rates and then relied on exit fees to deter borrowers from jumping ship. But since July 1, 2011, exit fees on consumer loans have been banned, curbing one of the competitive levers for non banks.

Even though the new role was designed to drive competition, market watchers were concerned non-bank lenders would have to hike their rates if they could not charge exit fees. But any negative impacts of this change appear to have been offset by a boost to the wholesale funding market, allowing non-bank lenders to access funds at a competitive rate, which in turn benefits their customers.

More flexibility

Being leaner, non-bank lenders are often nimbler when it comes to service and responsiveness, although this can be difficult to measure. They are also often more open to consumers who have been knocked back by one of the banks due to previous credit issues or self-employment.

Disadvantages of non-bank lenders

Limited products

If you are looking to house all of your financial products with one institution, a non-bank lender may not work for you. Although they tend to offer a solid range of mortgage products, they are unable to hold deposits, so you won’t be able to set up a transactional account and credit card with the same lender.

Some non-banks do offer offset accounts by setting them up with a banking partner. The offset account acts like a savings account, where the funds reduce the balance on the loan and the amount of interest charged.

Inconsistent offerings

Because non-bank lenders have no deposits to support their loans, they often rely on a range of wholesale loans to source their funding, increasing their exposure to market fluctuations.

This means the interest rate and terms offered to one customer with a non-bank lender may differ from what’s offered to another.

The simplest way to work out if a non-bank lender is right for you and your circumstances is to talk to your Mortgage Broker. Brokers act as a one-stop shop, with access to a wide range of lenders, including banks and non-banks, and hundreds of home loan products.

Bridging Loans

Finance to buy your new home before the old one is sold

Many, if not most, homeowners find their new dream home before they are able to sell their current one. Unfortunately, finding that home and finding the funds to purchase it are two very different things.

In a perfect scenario, we would all be able to precisely match up the dates that we sell our existing home and purchase a new one, aligning the end of one mortgage with the start of another. But reality, with its price fluctuations, varying auction clearance rates and general unpredictability, often intrudes to make the transition between properties an exceedingly stressful one.

Helping to “bridge” the timing gap are bridging loans.

What are bridging loans?

A bridging loan is when you require finance to purchase a second property with the intention of selling the existing one. A bridging loan is typically an interest only payment home loan with a limited loan term. The extent of the bridging loan is calculated on the equity in your current property.

It is an additional home loan that you take out on top of your current home loan until the property is sold and the loan can be closed. This means during the bridging period you have two loans and both loans are being charged interest.

Bridging finance is not for everyone. It pays to have built up at least 50% of your existing home’s value in equity before you attempt a bridging loan. Otherwise, you may end up paying a prohibitive amount of interest.

How do bridging loans work?

The size of your commitment on a bridging loan is calculated by adding the value of your new home to the outstanding mortgage on your existing home and then subtracting its likely sale price. What’s left is referred to as your “ongoing balance” or end debt, which represents the principal of your bridging loan.

Bridging loans are interest-only, so during a bridging period of six months interest will be compounded monthly on your ongoing balance at the standard variable rate. The interest bill will then be added to the ongoing balance when you sell your house. This amount becomes the mortgage on the new property.

While the interest rates on bridging loans are now comparable with ordinary mortgages, you will still essentially be carrying two mortgages. Additionally, you won’t actually be paying anything off during the bridging period. The longer you take to sell your existing home, the higher your interest bill, and hence your new mortgage, will be.

What are the risks?

Before taking any steps toward a bridging arrangement, it is essential to do your sums to make sure you can afford a bridging arrangement in the first place. If so, there is still a critical question that needs to be addressed.

“How long will you be able to look after two loans for?” One of the biggest issues in bridging finance is not to overestimate the likely sale price of the existing property, which could quite possibly fall short of the amount required to pay out the bridging loan.

As with all residential property transactions, it is important not to let your emotions get in the way – a challenge to many homeowners who see their home in a considerably more flattering way than most buyers will is to be prepared “to meet the market.”

Bridging loans are still subject to the usual array of mortgage-related costs.

However, the greatest risk is that your property will not sell within the bridging period. If structured correctly and based upon realistic timeframes and price estimates, bridging finance can ease the pressure of matching up settlement dates and give you time to sell your existing property while securing your new one.

Although there are risks, they can be mitigated. Give us a call on 1300 252 088 to discuss your options and strategies.

Bridging loan or deposit bond

When selling one property and purchasing another, the funds from the sale may not be available in time to use for the purchase deposit.  There are typically two options in this scenario: a bridging loan and a deposit bond.

Bridging loan

A bridging loan is a short-term home loan designed to allow you to initiate the purchase of a property before you have sold your previous one.

Loan terms are often between six and 12 months. Bridging loans do not always have a higher interest rate than traditional home loans. Some lenders may even allow the interest to be capitalised.

This can be a great option but carries some risk. It’s important to know that you will be able to make the repayments even in a worst-case scenario where your old house doesn’t sell as quickly as you’d hoped or where property values may change unexpectedly.

It’s important to talk to a broker and ensure that you have the capacity to service the loan for the period of time required.

Deposit bond

A deposit bond is a tool that, upon agreement with a vendor, can replace the requirement of a cash deposit when purchasing a property.

This can be a relatively cheap method of initiating the purchase of a property usually without the need to liquidate your other assets.  The cost of a bond can vary depending on transaction complexity and the term being sought.  In a simple transaction, it is likely to be approximately 1.3% of the amount of the deposit.  For example, for a deposit guarantee to the value of 10% of a property price for an individual purchasing an established property in NSW and repaying that guarantee within 6 months on a $50k deposit for a property purchase of $500k, the fee will be about $650.

A deposit bond is issued by an insurer to the vendor of the property for either the full or partial deposit required.  At settlement, the purchaser must pay the full purchase price including the amount of deposit.  At this point, the deposit bond becomes void.

If the purchaser fails to complete the purchase of the property, the vendor can present the deposit bond to the insurer who will provide them the entire value of the deposit bond.

The insurer will then seek reimbursement of the deposit bond from the purchaser.

Deposit bonds are generally a fair bit cheaper than a short-term loan, but it’s important to talk to a mortgage broker to compare the two, taking into account your requirements and objectives and your financial situation.